Oud-West, Amsterdam: Vondelpark, Foodhallen and Everyday City Life

Vondelpark: the obvious starting point

The Vondelpark opened in 1865 and covers roughly 47 hectares, which makes it the largest city park in Amsterdam. Entry is free and it is open to walkers, runners and cyclists, so expect to share the paths. The winding, English-style layout is meant for wandering rather than getting from A to B.

Two things are worth knowing in advance. The Blauwe Theehuis, a round 1930s pavilion in the middle of the park, is a pleasant stop for a drink, and the open-air theatre runs a summer programme that is usually free; check the park's own schedule for dates. In winter the park is quieter and the cafe terraces are mostly closed, so treat it as a walk rather than a destination. For the museums on its southern edge, see our guide to the Museum Quarter.

Foodhallen and De Hallen

De Hallen, at Bellamyplein 51, is a former tram depot that has been converted into a cultural centre. Foodhallen occupies part of it: an indoor food hall with a few dozen independent stands and several bars. It is open daily and typically runs from around midday until late evening, but hours change, so check foodhallen.nl before you go.

The practical point is timing. Early evening is when it fills up, and tables are shared. Arrive for a late lunch or just before six and you will usually find a seat. The rest of De Hallen is worth a look: it houses a cinema, a public library branch, studios, and a changing calendar of markets and talks listed on the De Hallen website. It is a good rainy-day base too.

Kinkerstraat and Overtoom

Kinkerstraat is the neighbourhood's working high street, with bakeries, Turkish and Moroccan grocers, cafes and small independent shops. It is not polished, which is why it is useful: prices are ordinary and you can see how the area actually lives. Tram 13 stops here, close to De Hallen.

Overtoom is the long road that runs from Leidseplein towards the Vondelpark and beyond. It is more of a connector than a destination, but it is lined with cafes and shops and it is a sensible route to walk if you are heading from the centre to the park. Neither street needs a plan; allow an hour each if you like browsing.

Ten Kate Market

Ten Katemarkt runs along Ten Katestraat and is a proper neighbourhood market: fresh produce, fish, cheese, bread, flowers and some prepared food. It is generally open Monday to Saturday and closed on Sundays, with Saturday the busiest day, but individual stalls vary and some are closed on Mondays. Check the municipality's market listing before making a special trip.

If you want a cheaper, quieter alternative to the tourist markets in the centre, this is it. Buy a picnic here and carry it to the Vondelpark.

A simple half-day route

Start with a market browse on Ten Katestraat in the morning, walk along Kinkerstraat to De Hallen, and have a late lunch at Foodhallen. Walk or tram to the Vondelpark and finish at the Blauwe Theehuis or on a bench by the water. If you are visiting the Rijksmuseum or Van Gogh Museum the same day, the park is the natural link on foot.

For more atmosphere in a different style, compare it with Jordaan, which is more historic and busier, and De Pijp, which has a livelier food scene.

Getting there and where to stay

Oud-West is well served by trams. Several tram lines run through the area, and tram 13 serves Kinkerstraat; check the GVB journey planner for the current routes. Leidseplein is a walk of around twenty minutes from De Hallen. The area has a good number of hotels and apartments at sensible prices compared with the canal ring, which makes it a practical base if you prefer a residential feel.